Nerur Sadashiva Brahmendra Samadhi: Peace of Mind, Naturally

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The entrance to the Samadhi in the form of an arch

The Carnatic Krithi, Manasa sancharare, set in the Raga Sama, urges the human mind to listen to the heart and unite with the Brahman (the Supreme One). Merely entering the Samadhi (tomb/mausoleum) of its composer, Sri Sadashiva Brahmendra, where the rustle of the wind and the flutter of the heart generate ample audible output, gives us an indication of what could have been his mental equilibrium while creating the Krithi – now a mainstay in kacheris (concerts).

A trip to the village of Nerur – where the tomb is located, eight km from the town of Karur in the Cauvery delta in Tamil Nadu – in itself can be a manual on meditation, aided of course by the transformation of surroundings, from the near chaotic lanes of the town to lush green fields surrounding the highway. My taxi driver, who also doubles up as an impromptu tourist guide, says that this highway got a facelift ahead of the Thiruvizha (festival) of an Amman temple that we just sped past. I nod in acknowledgement.

My trip, I must confess, was borne out of curiosity, and egged on by the ease with which I was able to learn a few of this saint’s compositions.

The last noise that I hear after reaching my destination, if my memory serves me right, is that of the driver turning off the ignition. I alight and enter the Samadhi, whose perimeter is bounded by pink-coloured walls, bordered with strips of white, as are the shrine’s inner walls. Nature has been generous enough to dot the shrine with trees of vast foliage offering me relief from the sweltering heat. The first thing that strikes one once inside is the near-spotless cleanliness, despite the greenery, and its avian residents. I expect the place to be inhabited by ochre-adorned monks, but I only see two women inside – one busy sweeping a passage-way and the other sitting beside an arrangement of books atop a table, that serves as a book-cum-curio stall.

The construction of the structure is simple in nature; certainly this is not the eighth wonder of the world. The gopuram (tower) is short and comprises ornate carvings. I proceed and enter a well-lit Sannidhi (sancta) dedicated to Lord Shiva. A passage to its left leads to the Samadhi, a brick structure measuring not more than 3-4 feet high and about 5 feet wide. It is said that the philosopher saint attained Jeeva Samadhi (when the soul never leaves the body but the person chooses to do so voluntarily) here. Beside it is the sthala vruksha (shrine tree) – a Bilva (Bael) tree – at least 20-25 feet high. It is said that Sri Brahmendra, when he knew that his worldly existence was coming to an end, instructed his disciples to bury him at this very spot and plant a Bilva tree beside. The silence that occurs here naturally can be an out-of-the world experience; unburdening the heart all of a sudden. Opposite to it are granite slabs on which the compositions of the saint are inscribed in different languages.

On an impulsive urge, I try my hand at meditation, and sit down for about two minutes with my eyes closed, when the book-keeper cuts short my trance and politely asks me to leave, stating it is lunch time.

I leave, albeit grudgingly, after a first-hand experience at meditation!

Who is Sadashiva Brahmendra?

The author of several Sanskrit works on Advaita (non-duality), including Advaita Rasa Manjari and Brahma Tatva Prakashika, Sri Sadashiva Brahmendra is said to have lived in between the 17th and 18th centuries. He attained sanyasa (renouncement) at a very young age. Apart from his prowess over the Vedas, his compositions comprise the lucid Carnatic krithis, most notably Pibare Rama Rasam, Sarvam Brahmamayam and Bhajare Gopalam.

How to reach
Karur is a junction on the Erode-Tiruchchirappalli rail line. It is also the nearest railhead to Nerur, about 9 km away. By rail, it is 340 km from Bangalore, 140 km from Madurai and 75 km from Tiruchchirappalli. Nearest airports are at Tiruchchirappalli and Coimbatore (120 km). Daily direct trains run between Bangalore and Karur – no 16231/16232 Mysore-Mayiladuthurai Express and no 16731/16732 Mysore-Tuticorin Express.

by Rajagopalan Venkataraman